Prague, Pretty and She Knows It

Part of my delay in writing about Prague was that I just... didn't like it as much as I expected to. Maybe this was because other travellers couldn't stop talking about it. How Prague is the best. So beautiful. So amazing. All this chatter got me pretty hyped about it – and that might be why it failed to reach these unrealistic expectations.

Each city has a vibe though. A feeling. And if I'm being honest, Prague wasn't giving off the right energy for me. It was overflowing with tourists, drunken British bachelor parties, and this strange sense of inauthenticity. Like it was a scene out of Disneyworld, all staged and dolled up for the tourists to come and gape at.

To be fair, we were in that horde of tourists. And to be true to this medium, I've written up a little recap of what Laura and I did during our time there.

Vienna, A City Steeped in Royalty

Our time in Vienna was short – but I wouldn't describe it as sweet. Stunning, yes. Enchanting and alluring with its intricate buildings and royal palaces. Lively and bustling. Upscale at almost every opportunity it's given. But gritty in parts too. Authentic. Sweet is too diminutive a word for this metropolitan masterpiece. It doesn't do it quite enough justice. But don't take my word for it. See the photos for yourself.

Out of all the cities Laura and I were visiting on our trip, I was least excited for Vienna. I heard the nightlife wasn't all that great. That the locals had an airy, haughty nature about them. That everything was glazed with a "better-than-thou" patina. And yet... Vienna surprised me the most. 

One of our best nights out was here. We had the most wonderful tour guide in the form of Laura's friend. The weather was perfect. And while there were a few bumps along the way (every single restaurant in our area stopped serving food at 10 pm the night we hungrily arrived!), we both loved Vienna so much. Here's some things I recommend doing...

Budapest, Something for Everyone

Before I get into reminiscing about one of my favourite cities in Europe, I just wanted to say – hello! Welcome to the blog! It's been a while! Over the next few weeks I'll be recapping mine and my friend Laura's mini Euro trip adventure we took this past May/June. We spent two weeks travelling through Budapest, Vienna, Prague, Berlin, and Amsterdam, and now it's finally time for me to commemorate the trip and consolidate my experiences (three months later…procrastination at its finest!).

Laura and I spent 3 days in Budapest... and it was the Budabest. The tourists don't swarm here. The architecture is incredible and detailed and delicate. The Danube river that divides the two sides of the city is a perfect backdrop to pictures. The food, the wine, the nightlife, the history, the baths – Budapest feels like it truly has something for everyone, no matter what you're interested in. Here's a breakdown of some things Laura and I raved about during our time in Hungary's capital.

Creemore, a Day Trip from Toronto

This headline is a little misleading, because Mom and I didn't technically come from Toronto to visit Creemore (we drove from Barrie, which was a pleasant 30 minutes). However, you can get to Creemore from Toronto in a brisk hour and a half, which still makes it a great day trip from the city. 

The time between Christmas and New Year's can turn into a vacuum of blank, dead space where time is just slipping through your fingers and you start getting a little stir crazy. Cue blogTO's article (read here) which inspired Mom and I to get our butts off the couch and enjoy some of Ontario's natural beauty and one of its cozy towns. 

Cordoba, a city of surprises

White washed houses squeezed together, forming alleyways and secret pathways. Greenery and flowers draped over windows, all the colours spilling onto the street. Private patios, made for private conversations and public admiration. Blazing blue skies, golden-dusted streets, lush royal gardens. This was Cordoba, and it surprised the heck out of me.

The last leg on our Spanish journey, Mom and I had zero expectations of Cordoba. All we knew about the city was that it was famous for its Mezquita. But beyond this tourist site, we had no idea what else there was to do – seriously, our itinerary for here was just “Mezquita” and a giant bold question mark for the rest of our time.

The Alhambra, Eight Tips on Visiting Spain's Most Beautiful Palace

Visiting the Alhambra is like a strange hybrid between going to Disneyland and eating at a Michelin-starred restaurant. You have to prepare months in advance, buy your ticket, reserve your table. Everyone and anyone is there and wants to be there. You stand in lines, you fight the crowds. But by the end, you're rewarded with a magical, once-in-a-lifetime experience. 

I messed up hard by not realizing that the online purchase only gives you a ticket confirmation. You have to pick up the actual tickets in person (so annoying! get with the online times, guys!). You can pick up the tickets at a tourist centre in Granada the day before, but since we didn't realize we had to do this, cue Mom and I waking up at before the crack of dawn. So, Tip #1, get your tickets (not just the confirmation!) in advance. 

Granada, a taste of North Africa in Europe

If Seville is the jewel of Southern Spain, then Granada is the black sheep of the family, decidedly more North African than European. Travelling a couple hours by bus, we were transported into a staggering and different world of dark, tiny alleys and fragrant, colourful storefronts.

The Moorish influence extends beyond the main tourist mecca that travelers pilgrimage here for – the Alhambra (a massive blog post photo dump that I’m saving for another post, another day). The food, souvenirs, and even the people, all bring a little taste of present-day Morocco to the city.

The Alhambra isn’t the only thing you can – or should – see while you’re in Granada. Mom and I packed in many other sights and activities during our time here, some of which were a let down (not-so-free tapas) and some which were a well-kept secret (a crowd-free Alhambra lookout point).

Pueblos Blancos, A Magical Trip into Andalucia

As I was researching southern Spain, I fell in love with the idea of one particular thing – driving around the infamous “pueblos blancos”, the white towns. Dotted along the hillside of Andalucía, these quaint white-washed towns looked like a fairy tale in the photos I found online and couldn’t stop obsessing over. The one problem was getting to them. Even if you rent a car (which would have been expensive because we don’t drive manual) the roads are difficult to navigate and parking is unreliable.

Enter Naturanada, a tour company that was recommended to us by our Airbnb host. They offer a Pueblos Blancos and Ronda trip, so we booked it through email and showed up at their office bright and early Monday morning. Including our tour guide, Blanca, there were 9 of us, and we all fit comfortably into a van for our day adventure.

For the next 10+ hours, we would climb castle ruins, see falcons flying above a National Park, hold tight to our seats as we curved along dangerous roads, do shots with locals at 10 in the morning, and be awed by some of the most beautiful sights we’ve ever seen.

Seville, a Journey into Southern Spain

From the heart of Catalonia (Barcelona) to the heart of traditional Spain (Seville). Southern Spain is the heart of bullfighting, free tapas, 50 degree days, flamenco dancing, and rolling hills with perfect rows of olive trees.

It’s what one typically thinks about when they hear the word “Spain”. It’s the stereotype, but it also holds a few surprises. It’s extravagant, but there’s also some down-to-earth pockets left to be explored.

Tickets, the Chef's Menu

You know who's obsessed with food – even more than I am? Barcelona. The entire city is teeming with restaurateurs, famous chefs, and Michelin-starred eateries. But on a backpacker's budget, there was no way I could afford to visit them all, so based on reviews, blogposts, Anthony Bourdain, and the general hype train, I decided on Tickets. 

Of "El Bulli" fortune and fame, Albert and Ferran Adria have opened up this magical tapas-style bar that takes its customers on an incredible taste journey. If you want to take part in this journey, you have to plan ahead – 2 months ahead! 

Reservations on their online website open exactly 2 months in advance, right at midnight. Due to time difference, that meant 6 pm for me. I had multiple browsers open and was frantically refreshing all of them to be able to snag a seat – and I did.

Barcelona, a Neighbourhood Guide

Some cities have looks, others have personality. With grunge architecture and grey-stone walls covered in graffiti, Barcelona isn't the prettiest city on earth. The gothic and medieval influence of the dark ages made it a little… well… dark.

But looks aren’t everything, and with a personality this big and beautiful, I fell in love with Barcelona’s cramped streets and monochromatic facades. Because the colour of this city – it comes alive in its people, in the markets brimming with perfectly stacked fruit, in musicians dancing and singing on street corners and plazas, in pitchers of red sangria filled with fresh fruit, in the trees that canopy and shade pedestrian-only promenades. 

With only 3 days in the city, Mom and I made the most of it by walking a combined 40 km. We were exhausted by the end of each day, but we managed to get a taste of so many unique and wonderful neighbourhoods. Here are (in my very inexperienced and humble opinion), the not to be missed sights and experiences in Barcelona, sorted by neighbourhood.

Chinchon, an Alternative to Toledo

This (as in my recent trip to Spain) wasn’t my first rodeo. But it might as well have been, since last time I visited this sunny paradise, I was only 11 years old. I’ll admit, I barely remember much from that trip. But one thing I do remember (or I just created fake memories from after being inundated with photos of it) was our trip to Toledo. The tiny alleys, streets that wound up and down, and of course that insane view of the city from the hill opposite it.

But this post isn’t about Toledo. Because on my recent trip to Spain, we completely avoided it.

Gasp! How could we?! Well, rumour has it that Toledo has turned into tourist central and lost a little bit of its authenticity. Sad face. So we searched for an alternative, and went with what the local (my mom’s friend) suggested – Chinchon, a town only 20 minutes away from where we were staying with her.

Consensus? It. Was. Magical.

Aranjuez, a Perfect Day Trip from Madrid

Our first day in Spain. It was hot, dry, and my mom and I were experiencing severe jet-lag. I felt like I was walking through a fog, and people and shapes were blurring before me.

Needless to say, we weren’t up for any intense sightseeing or travelling after spending a restless and sleepless night on the plane.

So first things first, we beat the Spanish summer heat by taking a dip in my mom’s friend’s pool, who graciously allowed us to stay at her house for a couple of nights.

How to Spend A Weekend in Guelph

This past weekend, I spent a couple of nights in Guelph, a city about an hour and a half directly west of Toronto. One of my best friends from high school, Ellen, did her master's here. She's since graduated, found a job, found an apartment, and welcomed me over for a visit.

I've been to Guelph a few times before, but something about this last visit really made me fall in love with it. The cute cafes and vintage stores, the artistic/hippie vibe of the city, the stunning river that runs through its centre, its proximity to nature — all of these things tugged at my heartstrings and made me wonder if I could ever live here myself. Not sure if I'm ready to abandon TO just yet, but it did get me thinking.

Here are some ideas on how to spend a few days in Guelph and fall in love with the city yourself.

Explore Downtown

Guelph's downtown isn't huge, but streets like Wyndham, Norfolk, and MacDonnell have tons of stores that are fun to poke your head into. My favourites were The Bookshelf, On the Verge, Wild Rose, and The Patch. 

Legitimately coming back to Guelph in the fall to do all of my winter wardrobe shopping and buy some unique and cool Christmas gifts in advance. 

Spend Time in Nature

Visiting Elora Gorge was at the top of my bucket list this summer, but as luck would have it, the weekend I was in Guelph, thousands of other people were there too for Elora Riverfest. Ellen and I decided to meet up with one of her friends from undergrad instead, so we drove to Christie Lake, a (somewhat) halfway point between Guelph and Niagara.

After paying a $15 entrance fee to get into the park, both of us were surprised at how peaceful it was and the lack of crowds. There were free picnic tables! Space on the beach for us to set up!  

Such a stunning drive there and back, too. The farmland is green, rolling, picturesque, and looks straight out of a postcard. We (travelers? people in general?) are so excited about going outside our country that we often forget to look at the beauty right where we are too.

Eat Delicious Food Made From Fresh, Local Ingredients

Before moving to Toronto, I spent 9 years of my life growing up in Barrie, a city similar to Guelph in population. Chain restaurants outnumber unique and interesting restaurants 9 to 1. Food options are limited to Kelsey's, The Keg, Montana's, Boston Pizza, Jack Astor's, etc, etc. So I've always looked down on small cities, assuming their food scene was just as bad as Barrie's. 

Thank you, Guelph! Thank you for being nothing like that horrid place I spent my tween and teen years in! 

Ellen suggested we go to Baker Street Station for dinner after our day on the beach, and my goodness, I want to go back and try every single thing on their menu. For an appetizer, Ellen and I shared the beer-battered brie, served with a raspberry compote. I could eat these like candy!

Ellen got the Salmon Poke Bowl (I had a bite and it was deeeelish) while I went with the Donair because I'm all about that naan bread. They also have a very long list of craft beers here, so I would highly, highly recommend you make a reservation if you know you're going to be in Guelph. Or, you know, just make a day out of it and drive out here for those Brie bites. 

Guelph is a lovely, lovely city with a unique pulse of its own. Add it to your bucket list and let it pleasantly surprise you, as it did me. 

How to Spend a Day in Collingwood

Last weekend, M and I (and Zoey!) went for a day trip along with my mom. We were originally going to go to Tobermory, then to Algonquin, but plans fell through and we didn't feel like driving that far... so my Mom made an executive decision that we'd spend the day somewhere closer instead.

Blue Mountain is more of a winter destination (at least in my mind). As a skier, I spent nearly every winter on these hills, since it's only a 45 minute drive away from where my parents live in Barrie.

But since Intrawest took over and built "The Village", Blue has attracted some summer crowds. The last time I visited during the summer was 6 or 7 years ago. It was busy, but not an anthill. I have fond memories of letting our family dog run loose all over the hill, and eating dinner at the Firehall Pizza restaurant. 

This time around... it was like Blue Mountain had all of a sudden become Disney World (and I swear I haven't seen it on any BlogTo articles, which would at least explain its sudden surge into popularity). 

What had once been a quaint and cute ski town had turned into tourist central. 

I get the hypocrisy. I myself, am a tourist. But there's a part of me that remembers, and misses, what summers in Collingwood were like. And I think there's a part of me too that considers myself a local, and it breaks my heart when I see small shops and stores being driven out by corporations (our favourite mermaid-branded coffee chain!) and luxury brands. 

One of the reasons that Blue Mountain has become such a destination (at least in my opinion) is the truckload of activities they've created - a mini golf couse! zip lining! mountain coaster! helicopter tours! segway tours! You know a place isn't off the beaten path anymore when they start hosting segway tours, haha. 

Okay, enough of the hate. Blue Mountain is busy, the activities are a bit of an overkill, but the view from the top is killer, and if you hike along the top of the mountain, there are barely any other people there. 

Which meant we could let Zoey off her leash and let her have some fun. 

This seems like a weird thing to say, but to escape the tourists, we went... downtown. Yup. Downtown Collingwood with cute cafes and food places was a nice change from the crowds in the Village. 

M and I got an iced espresso from The Lethal Buzz Cafe, I highly recommend them, they were so sweet and kind, letting us order even though they were closing down for the day :) 

There are so many little nooks and crannies like the one above. Stunning design stores, and vintage stores, tea stores - an interesting assortment of places to wander in and out of. 

When I was young, my mom and dad and I always went to East Side Mario's for dinner, so Mom and I thought it would be fun to do that again. Shocker - East Side's closed down! There's a Pie Restaurant in it's place now, so the 3 of us just decided to go for it - and it was really good!

I know I can't expect things to always stay the same. Change is inevitable, and it's good for Collingwood's economy to rake in the dough from tourism. Restaurants close down, other restaurants open up. Mom-and-pop coffee shops are bought and rebranded and reopened as a franchise. That's life. But in my memories, Blue Mountain will always be a place where I ran through waist high grass soaking in summer away from the bustling city.