From the
heart of Catalonia (Barcelona) to the heart of traditional Spain (Seville). Southern
Spain is the heart of bullfighting, free tapas, 50 degree days, flamenco
dancing, and rolling hills with perfect rows of olive trees.
It’s what
one typically thinks about when they hear the word “Spain”. It’s the
stereotype, but it also holds a few surprises. It’s extravagant, but there’s
also some down-to-earth pockets left to be explored.
The biggest
asset of Seville – its beauty – is also its biggest drawback, because everyone
knows it. Most places we went, we were met with an invasion of tour groups, swarms
of 30 or more people huddled together and armed with headphones, selfie sticks,
and iPads (I strongly judge everyone who takes photos with an iPad… just… don’t).
Pushing our
way through these crowds honestly dampened my experience of Seville quite a
bit, especially when we were exploring sights like the Cathedral or Alcazar. I
know there’s a solution to the crowds because I witnessed it first-hand a few days
later in Cordoba. Entrance to Cordoba’s main sight, the Mezquita, is closed to
tour groups until 10 am. It makes the biggest difference, and I fervently hope
the same rule is implemented in Seville.
But I can’t
be a hypocrite. I myself am a tourist (obviously), and Mom and I saw a whole
lot of things that were touristy-as-hell. But, we also wanted to venture off
the beaten path a bit and take a break from swatting away selfie sticks. Below
I’ve compiled a list of both popular must-see attractions in Seville as well as
places to go that aren’t as crowded (but are worth your time all the same!).
Take in the views from Metropol Parasol
What used
to be an old parking lot in an area that tourists overlooked is now the site of
one of the world’s largest wooden structures. While locals are divided on
Metropol’s looks (it’s been nicknamed “las setas” which means the mushrooms), I
highly enjoyed walking along the top and enjoying the stunning views of
Seville.
The clean, round lines of the structure are a beautiful juxtaposition
with the centuries-old linear facades of traditional homes. During mid-day, it
might have been hot on the unprotected roof, but the lack of crowds made up for
it.
Join the Tourists at the Cathedral
Get ready
for Disneyworld: Seville Edition. No fun rides. Same insane lines. I had no
idea the Cathedral would be so busy, otherwise I would have prepared myself
better – gotten tickets earlier, lined up earlier, etc. The groups in the line
were so unbelievably rude and pushy, that unfortunately, I ended up having a
negative experience.
To escape
some of them, Mom and I headed straight for the Giralda, the old Muslim tower
monument that’s accessed not by stairs, but by a ramp. It’s a gentle slope but a
difficult climb, one that was done by the imman on horseback five times a day
to give the call to prayer.
Also worth
checking out are the orange-trees in the courtyard, Christopher Columbus’s
tomb, and the decadent altar laden with gold.
Go Back in Time at the Alcazar
Game of
Thrones set. Former palace. Popular tourist attraction. After the smorgasbord
at the Cathedral, Mom and I were prepared. Tickets were purchased online. We
arrived 30 minutes early to get in the queue. Once our tickets were scanned, we
sped walked/ran to the most popular spot – and bam, we actually managed to get
some pristine photos.
The inner
palace is alive with intricate carvings, soaring ceilings, and colourful tiles,
but don’t miss the equally stunning gardens at the back. Palm trees balance precariously
on thin frames and surround lovely walkways that lead to mazes, fountains, and
secret hideaways.
Explore the Santa Cruz District
The
neighbourhood just east of the Alcazar is the old (medieval-old) Jewish
district and currently the main tourist hub. Here we encountered dozens of
tourist shops amidst the labyrinth of tiny, narrow streets.
Why so narrow? To protect
people from the insane Sevillian sun, of course! Elsewhere in the city, where
the streets aren’t as narrow, fabrics hang from one building to the next to
create shade above. On our first day in Seville, the temperature was above 40 – and
September isn’t even the hottest time of the year! Walking around the shady
streets in Santa Cruz was the perfect place to hide out during siesta, the
hottest time of the day.
Walk Through Spain at the Plaza de EspaƱa
Okay, so we
didn’t literally walk through all of Spain – but metaphorically, that’s what
the Plaza de EspaƱa is all about. Built in 1929 for the World Expo, each region
of Spain gets its own alcove decorated in tiles that reflect the area.
By walking from one end to the other, we were able to "see" every
region of Spain. The architecture itself is incredible here. The building is large and demanding, and the beautiful canal that runs underneath has serious Venice vibes.
Visit the oldest Bullring in the world
Bullfighting.
It’s a highly controversial topic, not only in Spain, but in the whole world. Supporters
say it’s a traditional art; protestors say it’s animal abuse. I’m not going to
get into the arguments for/against it here on the blog, but I do wish I could
have watched an actual bullfight. Unfortunately, cue that Southern Spain sun,
there are no bull fights in the summer months due to the heat.
So I settled for
a tour of the museum and the ring instead. I had a great experience going
through the different rooms and listening to our guide (included in the fee)
take us through bullfighting’s history. Standing in the middle of the
yellow-dust ring and imagining all the battles that have happened right where I
was standing is an experience I recommend everyone has.
Take a Stroll along the River in Tirana
Across the
river, along the bridge, is the once-separate-village of Tirana. It was here,
along the river on Calle Betis, that my mom and dad lived while working for a
wealthy & elderly seƱora.
Just before
crossing the bridge into the area, we paid a visit to the lovely modern food
market, Mercado Lonja Del Barranco, where I had one
of the best meals of my trip – a Spanish-style empanada filled with caramelized
onions, goat cheese, and roasted red peppers.
We happened
to be in Tirana during siesta time, so most shops and stores were closed. One
that was open, however, was Ceramica Santa Ana. I couldn’t leave Spain without
taking a bit of it with me, and what’s more Spanish than colourful, classic
tiles?
Treat Yourself at the Hotel Alfonso
I’m not
talking about booking a night’s stay here – which will set you back $750
minimum! – but treating yourself to coffee and a snack.
Hotel Alfonso's interior patio is open to the public, and if you stick to appetizers and drinks, your wallet won't take too much of a hit. That's exactly what Mom and I did, and for the hour we were there, we were
treated like royalty – seriously, best service! I ordered a cheese
platter and a glass of champagne, because if you’re going to be classy, might
as well go all out.
Enjoy a Flamenco Show
Seville is the city in Spain to see a flamenco show. Flamenco is available in many forms – from fully serviced shows with dinner to impromptu performances on the street. Mom and I bought tickets to the Casa de la Memoria, a cultural centre that features some of the top Flamenco dancers in the country.
I didn't know what to expect going into it, which is maybe why I was so taken aback by Flamenco – it's a very passionate, emotional dance! During the performance, we weren't allowed to take any photos, which turned out to be nice as it let us focus on the dancing and become involved in the performance ourselves.
Drink with Locals in Macarena
Hands-down my favourite part of Seville was going out in the Macarena neighbourhood just north of the city centre. Finally, the hordes of tourists were gone, the heat of the day dissipated, and Mom and I got to experience nitty-gritty, down-to-earth Seville. This area comes alive at night, with locals spilling out onto the street, beers in hand, boisterous conversations echoing across the plaza.
What shocked me the most was seeing children out at late hours of the night. Parents would sit and drink outside near a bar while the kids entertained themselves, riding bikes or scooters or playing football. On the main boulevard Alameda de Hercules, a huge playground was situated right in front of a row of bars! That would never be legal in Canada. And yet, here in Spain, family is brought everywhere. Kids aren't a nuisance, and meeting with friends late into the night isn't off the table once you're a parent.
Seville's a stunner, and if you go into your travels knowing there will be lots of other people enjoying its beauty, too, you can be prepared. Get everywhere early. Take some time to venture off the tourist trail. See the sights, but also get a feel for its personality.
