Prague, Pretty and She Knows It

Part of my delay in writing about Prague was that I just... didn't like it as much as I expected to. Maybe this was because other travellers couldn't stop talking about it. How Prague is the best. So beautiful. So amazing. All this chatter got me pretty hyped about it – and that might be why it failed to reach these unrealistic expectations.

Each city has a vibe though. A feeling. And if I'm being honest, Prague wasn't giving off the right energy for me. It was overflowing with tourists, drunken British bachelor parties, and this strange sense of inauthenticity. Like it was a scene out of Disneyworld, all staged and dolled up for the tourists to come and gape at.

To be fair, we were in that horde of tourists. And to be true to this medium, I've written up a little recap of what Laura and I did during our time there.

Vienna, A City Steeped in Royalty

Our time in Vienna was short – but I wouldn't describe it as sweet. Stunning, yes. Enchanting and alluring with its intricate buildings and royal palaces. Lively and bustling. Upscale at almost every opportunity it's given. But gritty in parts too. Authentic. Sweet is too diminutive a word for this metropolitan masterpiece. It doesn't do it quite enough justice. But don't take my word for it. See the photos for yourself.

Out of all the cities Laura and I were visiting on our trip, I was least excited for Vienna. I heard the nightlife wasn't all that great. That the locals had an airy, haughty nature about them. That everything was glazed with a "better-than-thou" patina. And yet... Vienna surprised me the most. 

One of our best nights out was here. We had the most wonderful tour guide in the form of Laura's friend. The weather was perfect. And while there were a few bumps along the way (every single restaurant in our area stopped serving food at 10 pm the night we hungrily arrived!), we both loved Vienna so much. Here's some things I recommend doing...

Budapest, Something for Everyone

Before I get into reminiscing about one of my favourite cities in Europe, I just wanted to say – hello! Welcome to the blog! It's been a while! Over the next few weeks I'll be recapping mine and my friend Laura's mini Euro trip adventure we took this past May/June. We spent two weeks travelling through Budapest, Vienna, Prague, Berlin, and Amsterdam, and now it's finally time for me to commemorate the trip and consolidate my experiences (three months later…procrastination at its finest!).

Laura and I spent 3 days in Budapest... and it was the Budabest. The tourists don't swarm here. The architecture is incredible and detailed and delicate. The Danube river that divides the two sides of the city is a perfect backdrop to pictures. The food, the wine, the nightlife, the history, the baths – Budapest feels like it truly has something for everyone, no matter what you're interested in. Here's a breakdown of some things Laura and I raved about during our time in Hungary's capital.

Cordoba, a city of surprises

White washed houses squeezed together, forming alleyways and secret pathways. Greenery and flowers draped over windows, all the colours spilling onto the street. Private patios, made for private conversations and public admiration. Blazing blue skies, golden-dusted streets, lush royal gardens. This was Cordoba, and it surprised the heck out of me.

The last leg on our Spanish journey, Mom and I had zero expectations of Cordoba. All we knew about the city was that it was famous for its Mezquita. But beyond this tourist site, we had no idea what else there was to do – seriously, our itinerary for here was just “Mezquita” and a giant bold question mark for the rest of our time.

The Alhambra, Eight Tips on Visiting Spain's Most Beautiful Palace

Visiting the Alhambra is like a strange hybrid between going to Disneyland and eating at a Michelin-starred restaurant. You have to prepare months in advance, buy your ticket, reserve your table. Everyone and anyone is there and wants to be there. You stand in lines, you fight the crowds. But by the end, you're rewarded with a magical, once-in-a-lifetime experience. 

I messed up hard by not realizing that the online purchase only gives you a ticket confirmation. You have to pick up the actual tickets in person (so annoying! get with the online times, guys!). You can pick up the tickets at a tourist centre in Granada the day before, but since we didn't realize we had to do this, cue Mom and I waking up at before the crack of dawn. So, Tip #1, get your tickets (not just the confirmation!) in advance. 

Granada, a taste of North Africa in Europe

If Seville is the jewel of Southern Spain, then Granada is the black sheep of the family, decidedly more North African than European. Travelling a couple hours by bus, we were transported into a staggering and different world of dark, tiny alleys and fragrant, colourful storefronts.

The Moorish influence extends beyond the main tourist mecca that travelers pilgrimage here for – the Alhambra (a massive blog post photo dump that I’m saving for another post, another day). The food, souvenirs, and even the people, all bring a little taste of present-day Morocco to the city.

The Alhambra isn’t the only thing you can – or should – see while you’re in Granada. Mom and I packed in many other sights and activities during our time here, some of which were a let down (not-so-free tapas) and some which were a well-kept secret (a crowd-free Alhambra lookout point).

Pueblos Blancos, A Magical Trip into Andalucia

As I was researching southern Spain, I fell in love with the idea of one particular thing – driving around the infamous “pueblos blancos”, the white towns. Dotted along the hillside of Andalucía, these quaint white-washed towns looked like a fairy tale in the photos I found online and couldn’t stop obsessing over. The one problem was getting to them. Even if you rent a car (which would have been expensive because we don’t drive manual) the roads are difficult to navigate and parking is unreliable.

Enter Naturanada, a tour company that was recommended to us by our Airbnb host. They offer a Pueblos Blancos and Ronda trip, so we booked it through email and showed up at their office bright and early Monday morning. Including our tour guide, Blanca, there were 9 of us, and we all fit comfortably into a van for our day adventure.

For the next 10+ hours, we would climb castle ruins, see falcons flying above a National Park, hold tight to our seats as we curved along dangerous roads, do shots with locals at 10 in the morning, and be awed by some of the most beautiful sights we’ve ever seen.

Seville, a Journey into Southern Spain

From the heart of Catalonia (Barcelona) to the heart of traditional Spain (Seville). Southern Spain is the heart of bullfighting, free tapas, 50 degree days, flamenco dancing, and rolling hills with perfect rows of olive trees.

It’s what one typically thinks about when they hear the word “Spain”. It’s the stereotype, but it also holds a few surprises. It’s extravagant, but there’s also some down-to-earth pockets left to be explored.

Tickets, the Chef's Menu

You know who's obsessed with food – even more than I am? Barcelona. The entire city is teeming with restaurateurs, famous chefs, and Michelin-starred eateries. But on a backpacker's budget, there was no way I could afford to visit them all, so based on reviews, blogposts, Anthony Bourdain, and the general hype train, I decided on Tickets. 

Of "El Bulli" fortune and fame, Albert and Ferran Adria have opened up this magical tapas-style bar that takes its customers on an incredible taste journey. If you want to take part in this journey, you have to plan ahead – 2 months ahead! 

Reservations on their online website open exactly 2 months in advance, right at midnight. Due to time difference, that meant 6 pm for me. I had multiple browsers open and was frantically refreshing all of them to be able to snag a seat – and I did.

Barcelona, a Neighbourhood Guide

Some cities have looks, others have personality. With grunge architecture and grey-stone walls covered in graffiti, Barcelona isn't the prettiest city on earth. The gothic and medieval influence of the dark ages made it a little… well… dark.

But looks aren’t everything, and with a personality this big and beautiful, I fell in love with Barcelona’s cramped streets and monochromatic facades. Because the colour of this city – it comes alive in its people, in the markets brimming with perfectly stacked fruit, in musicians dancing and singing on street corners and plazas, in pitchers of red sangria filled with fresh fruit, in the trees that canopy and shade pedestrian-only promenades. 

With only 3 days in the city, Mom and I made the most of it by walking a combined 40 km. We were exhausted by the end of each day, but we managed to get a taste of so many unique and wonderful neighbourhoods. Here are (in my very inexperienced and humble opinion), the not to be missed sights and experiences in Barcelona, sorted by neighbourhood.

Chinchon, an Alternative to Toledo

This (as in my recent trip to Spain) wasn’t my first rodeo. But it might as well have been, since last time I visited this sunny paradise, I was only 11 years old. I’ll admit, I barely remember much from that trip. But one thing I do remember (or I just created fake memories from after being inundated with photos of it) was our trip to Toledo. The tiny alleys, streets that wound up and down, and of course that insane view of the city from the hill opposite it.

But this post isn’t about Toledo. Because on my recent trip to Spain, we completely avoided it.

Gasp! How could we?! Well, rumour has it that Toledo has turned into tourist central and lost a little bit of its authenticity. Sad face. So we searched for an alternative, and went with what the local (my mom’s friend) suggested – Chinchon, a town only 20 minutes away from where we were staying with her.

Consensus? It. Was. Magical.

Aranjuez, a Perfect Day Trip from Madrid

Our first day in Spain. It was hot, dry, and my mom and I were experiencing severe jet-lag. I felt like I was walking through a fog, and people and shapes were blurring before me.

Needless to say, we weren’t up for any intense sightseeing or travelling after spending a restless and sleepless night on the plane.

So first things first, we beat the Spanish summer heat by taking a dip in my mom’s friend’s pool, who graciously allowed us to stay at her house for a couple of nights.

Wieliczka Salt Mine in Poland

Welcome to the last of my posts from Poland. (I am so ashamed it took me over eight months to get this whole series up... talk about procrastination!) Although Wieliczka is technically a sight of Kraków, because it's such a special destination, I wanted to give it a post of its own.

Only a 25 minute train ride from Kraków, Wieliczka is a salt mine and a UNESCO Heritage Sight. It operated from the 13th century to 2007. 

Now, it's mostly a tourist site, as well as providing health facilities due to the healing properties of salt caves. There's an underground hotel where people with health problems, such as asthma, come to get better. 

The only way to see the salt mine is to go on a tour, which is really helpful because a) they lead you through the underground labyrinths and b) you learn about the history of the miners and the mine itself. 

The history of Wieliczka begins with the legend of Princess Kinga, a Hungarian noblewoman who threw her engagement ring into the shaft of a mine in Hungary before coming to Poland to marry the King. When she arrived in Kraków, she asked miners to dig a deep pit, where they found her ring within a salt rock. That hole was the beginning of Wieliczka. They found huge salt deposits there, and started the mine on that very spot.

Above is the largest chamber in the mine. Many masses have been held here, since there's a chapel located here as well. In fact, there are many, many chapels in the mine. Typical Poles.

Also underground are these stunning lakes. The water is absolutely freezing, since we're over 50 m underground. These lakes and rivers were used to navigate between the caverns at one point.

After spending hours underground, it's a shock to your system to come back into the light. Apart from being an interesting cultural experience, Wieliczka is a great place to reset your system. The health benefits of salt caves are starting to make their way into North America, with caves being constructed from scratch. It's called "Halotherapy", and some caves even bring in Polish specialists to make sure the caves are set up properly. 

Poland, you were a joy. Thanks for the countless moments, the beautiful sights, and time spent with family. 

Kraków: Food

In the battle of Kraków vs. Warsaw in terms of vibe + atmosphere, Warsaw wins out (an unpopular choice, but that’s how I felt!). When the two are fighting it out for where there’s better food, though … the winner isn’t as clear-cut. I think that’s because Poland, overall, has amazing food wherever you go. Below are the places I ate at & enjoyed while in Kraków. 

U Babci Maliny Kuchnia Staropolska

The name of this restaurant roughly translates to “Grandma’s Kitchen.” Wooed by the hopes of home cooked food, Mom and I came here for a quick bite to eat. 

Our only mistake is that we ordered way, way, way too much food. We assumed that the croquettes were going to be small, so we each ordered an extra one for our meal. When they arrived, Mom and I just burst out laughing. It was a massive portion. Whoops. Don’t order extra when you’re here!

The barszcz and salads that came with the croquette were phenomenal. Fresh and delicious. 

Balaton

According to Mom, this restaurant has been a staple in Kraków for decades. My grandma always came here with her friends. Serving hearty and flavourful Hungarian dishes, we both got “Placki po Węgiersku”, Hungarian Pancakes. 

They’re crispy potato pancakes served with meat and sauce on top, and probably one of my favourite dishes in the world. Here, they’re served with a variety of cold salads, and of course, sour cream on top.

Sukiennice Restaurant

The restaurants in and around the main square are known for being quite pricey and lacking in food quality. My cousin, who’s lived in Kraków for quite some time now, brought us to Sukiennice, her go-to place in the Main Square. 

We came here for the beer and fried oscypek, which is a traditional cheese made in Southern Poland. It’s not everybody’s taste, but I’m obsessed, and even ended up bringing 3kg back home with me. 

The restaurant kindly and unexpectedly gave us four free shots of fruit vodka. Four FREE shots. Totally not the norm in North America, but judging by the unsurprised looks of my cousin and her boyfriend, it must happen more often in Poland. Note: move here soon.

Café Młynek

Mom and I would have loved more time to explore the old Jewish district of Kraków, Kazimierz. When we met up with one of my mom’s friends at Café Młynek, the neighbourhood didn’t look as busy and alive as I had assumed, but maybe that’s because we weren’t in the right area. I’ll definitely have to devote more time to it on my next trip. 

Either way, Café Młynek did not disappoint. I ordered crepes and mulled wine, which was very strong but very delicious. 

Jama Michalika

Another Kraków classic, Mom and I met up with my grandma’s best friend here before spending the day touring art galleries & museums with her. Opened in 1895, the café is one of the oldest in Kraków, and the décor from 1908 still adorns the interior. 

Although it looks a little dated now, back in its glory years, it was the place for bohemians and artists to get together and discuss their work. Plays, cabarets, and various other performances were staged at the café.  

There weren’t any performances going on in the morning, so I just ordered a whipped hot chocolate which came in a beautiful large glass. 

We were only in Kraków for three days, so I’m sure I’ve missed many “go-to” restaurants in the city. The above is where my Mom and I managed to visit, and they’re all places we enjoyed very much. Happy eating! 

Kraków: Sights

There's no denying it - Kraków is a gorgeous city. Horse-drawn carriages, cobblestone streets, music playing everywhere you go. It's a picture perfect historical European city. It dates back to the 7th century, which is why the alleys are narrow and the buildings are beautiful. Here are some thing (in my humble opinion, of course) that are worth checking out when you're in the city. 

Kraków Barbican and Florian’s Gate

If you’re staying north of the Main Square, you’ll most likely have to pass through the Gate in order to get downtown – fitting, since it actually used to be gateway to enter the city. The Barbican is the building just north of the Gate and served as a military outpost and was part of the city’s defensive wall. At the height of the wall’s existence, there were 47 watchtowers similar to Florian’s Gate all around the city. Now there’s just the one survivor.

Present day, there are musicians playing underneath the tower and art students from the nearby university selling their paintings and drawings. Their artwork adorns the southern wall and comes at an extremely affordable price. I purchased 5 paintings to bring home as souvenirs for friends and family (and for myself too!)

National Museum in Kraków 

While in Kraków, Mom and I met up with one of my grandma’s closest friends, Pani Basia. She spent the day with us at some wonderful exhibitions and museums. We didn’t visit the main National Museum building, but we visited the smaller branches such as the Kamienica Szołayskich and the Emeryka Hutten-Czapskiego.

If it’s your first time in the city, I recommend going to the massive, main museum. But if you don’t have much time to spare, or you’ve already been to the main building, the National Museum has smaller buildings and exhibitions around the city.

My favourite was the Emeryka Hutten-Czapskiego. Filled with a coin collection, old books, and best of all, vintage maps, I would have loved to spend a few more hours in there.

Main Square

If you visit Kraków, you can’t avoid the main square. It’s the heart of the city. It’s where the magic happens. It’s where musicians, locals, tourists (and pigeons!) come to hang out and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.

In one corner of the square is St. Mary’s Basilica, where every hour on the hour, a trumpeter calls out from the taller of the two towers on the church. Halfway through his tune, he stops abruptly, to commemorate when centuries ago, Mongol attackers shot the trumpeter right in the throat. 

That’s what you get when you’re trying to alert the city to an attack. You get shot. But at least it’s remembered and honoured for years and years afterwards, and you become a historical legend. 

Podziemia Rynku

While the Main Square is inevitable to visit, underneath the square is actually an up and coming tourist attraction. A few years ago, the city decided to excavate the entire Main Square of Kraków, and they discovered a whole city underneath the city – namely, the old stalls from the original cloth hall from Medieval times.

The museum is interactive and informative, talking about the history of the city and really making you feel as if you were transported back in time.

Wawel Royal Castle

Wawel is absolutely stunning. I spent 100% of my time there wandering around pretending I was a princess. Maybe in a past life I actually was, because I definitely felt a certain connection with the place.

One of the saddest things about Wawel, however, is their strict rules on photography. No photos of the interiors, at any time whatsoever. It’s such a shame, because the tapestry collection is (I think?) the most renowned in Europe. You’re just going to have to take my word on it.

Jagiellonian University

The University was created and built the same time as the Royal Castle, in the 1300s by King Casimir. It’s one of the oldest universities in the world, and the second oldest in Central Europe.

The architecture on the outside is stunning. Right outside the law building is the “Drzewo Wolności”, the tree of freedom, dedicated to Poland regaining its independence after World War One.

Streets and Alleyways

You could spend days in Kraków just wandering the streets, getting lost in the architecture and the beauty of the city.

One of the things that I didn’t like about the city is what a lot of people love – the closeness and the near-claustrophobia of the tiny streets. It’s not fully for me, but I get the appeal and the romantic nature. I still had a wonderful time in Kraków, even though it wasn't my favourite of places in Poland.